Next Stop: Ohrid & Matka Canyon


Hello hello! 
Teine ja ühtlasi ka viimane postitus sellest Makedoonia reisist on valmis saanud! Kuna täna jutustan kahest kohast, siis hakkame parem ruttu pihta!
Have fun! 

Asukoht:
Ohrid ja Matka kanjon, Makedoonia 

Reisi kestvus:
Kuna kogu mu ööbimine oli planeeritud Skopjes, siis osutusid mõlemad tänased sihtkohad ühe päeva reisideks. 

Sihtkohta reisimine:
Ohrid: Mina sõitsin Ohridisse Skopjest bussiga (ja tagasi ka). Edasi-tagasi piletid maksid kokku 12€ ning ühe otsa sõit kestis umbes 3-3,5 tundi, muidugi polnud ka seal bussis erilisi mugavusi nagu wifi jne. Pileteid saab soetada kohalikust suurest bussijaamast ning graafik Skopje ja Ohridi vahel on painduv, Ohridi bussijaamas on üleval graafik ka kenasti nähtav. Bussipiletitega on sama süsteem nagu mul oli Skopjesse saabudes, sihtkohast tagasitulemiseks antakse nö vaba pilet, mis tuleb ära broneerida sihtkoha (seekord siis Ohridi) bussijaamas. Skopjes platvormi maksu maksma ei pidanud, küll pidi maksma millegi eest u 60 denarit Ohridis (1€=61 denarit). 
Matka: Matkasse saab seevastu aga peabussijaama kõrvalt, kust lähevad linnaliini bussid, sinna sõidab buss nr 60, mille graafiku leiab SIIT kommentaaridest, minu puhul pidasid need ajad paika. Kanjon asub Skopjest u 15km kaugusel ning buss sõidab u 45-60 minutit. Tavalisest bussipiletist piisab, 100 denari eest peaks saama sõita kolm otsa, lisaks maksab linnaliini kaart u 50-100 denarit. Minu puhul peatus buss külas, mis oli Matka Kanjonist 4 km kaugusel, edasi tuleb minna kas jala või taksoga, giidi sõnul maksis takso 100-200 denarit, kahjuks ei oska ma seda kinnitada, sest ise valisin jalutamise. Tee sinna on lihtne, tegemist on sirgega, sildid on üleval ning bussi pealt tuleb veel hulgi ka teisi matkajaid, seega ära sinna kindlasti ei eksi. Buss läheb tagasi täpselt samast kohast üle tee (poe eest), ka seda on lihtne leida inimmassi järgi. Matkasse on võimalik minna ka autoga. 

Kohalik eripära: 
Ohrid: Teel Ohridisse nägin kui mägine maa on Makedoonia, selline tunne nagu seal olekski ainult üks suur linn, paar küla/ väiksemat linna ja palju puudega kaetud mägesid. Tee peal oli ka mitu teemaksu puntki, mida lähemale Skopjele, seda tihedamaks punktide vahemaad läksid, kahjuks ei oska ma teemaksu hindasid täpselt välja tuua, kuid minu meelest küsiti sõiduauto eest 1,5-2€ lõigu kohta? Minu esmamulje Ohridist polnud just parim, sest bussijaam asub kesklinnast veidi eemal ning ümberringi lokkab palju vaesust (natukene aimu saab viimaselt kahelt Ohridi pildilt, millest viimane on bussijaam), millegipärast oli minu ettekujutuses Ohrid pisike kohakene koos kõigi nende ilusate vaadete ja majakestega, reaalsuses on tegemist aga päris suure kohaga, kus on vaid killuke osa seda ilu, mida Google pildid pakuvad. Nagu ikka Makedoonia reisil, proovis ka seal minuga juttu teha vanem meesterahvas, kes ei lahkunud enne, kui oli suutnud mulle oma Facebooki kontakti kirjutada (ma keeldusin talle enda oma andmast), väga ebameeldiv kogemus.
Matka: Matkaga oli peaaegu sama lugu, kõik oli justkui nagu piltidel, aga millegipärast olin ma seda oma peas kujutanud kohana, kus on palju rohkem lauget pinda kus saaks rahulikult istuda ja nautida vaadet, tegelikuses on seal palju turiste, matkamise teed on kitsad (kindlasti mugavad jalanõud jalga, mitte nagu mõned tädid, kes mulle tikk-kontsades vastu kõndisid), mõnes kohas on isegi piirded katki, niisiis hoolimata tegelikult ilusast kohast valdas mind terve päev pettumus, sest olin selle koha enda jaoks palju vägevamaks mõelnud, not a good thing to do.. 

Majutus:
Nagu juba mainisin, siis minu majutus oli kogu reisi jooksul Skopjes, millest saab lugeda SELLES postituses, kuid minu teada peaks olema võimalik ööbida ka nii Ohridis kui Matkas. Oleneb mida keegi soovib, kuid minu meelest nägi need kohad väga ilusti ära ka ühe päevaga. 

Vaatamisväärsused:
Ohrid: Ma nüüd loodan, et ma ei riku ära kellegi jaoks seda kogemust Ohridist nagu Google pildid rikkusid ära minu kogemuse Matkas, kuid see killuke osa ilust (vanalinn), millest ma enne rääkisin on ikka väga väga väga ilus. Mulle tuletas meelde natukene Como järve ja natukene Horvaatia rannikut ja natukene Game of Thrones'i ka (millest osa on ka Horvaatias tehtud), fun fact- ma pole ei Horvaatias ega Como ääres käinud. Kuigi kogu vanalinna osa on väga ilus ning romantiline ja tänu ajalooliselt religioossele kohale on seal väga palju kirikuid ja ka mošeesid, siis minu lemmikuteks olid vaieldamatult St. Johni kirik, mis on ise küll väga ilus, kuid see vaade sealt on lihtsalt väga lummav, samuti meeldis mulle St. Panteleimon klooster, mis on üks esimesi ülikoole Euroopas kui mitte maailmas. Peamiste kohtade juures on piletid, mis maksvad u 60-120 denarit (1-2€). Kahjuks ei leidnud ma ühtegi tasuta tuuri pakkumist selles linnas, küll aga leidsin selle lehe SIIN, kust saab alla laadida tasuta PDF faile ringkäiguks Ohridis, seal on olemas kogu info vaatamisväärsustest ning kaardid, samuti on seal lehel võimalus alla laadida kuulamisfailid samast asjast, minule oli sellest palju kasu, hea alternatiiv giidile.  
Matka: Matka on aga rohkem mõeldud loodusearmastajatele ning peale ühe kiriku seal suurt arhitektuuri ei ole, küll on seal aga Vrelo koobas, mis on osade spekulatsioonide järgi üks sügavamaid veealuseid koopaid maailmas. Ausalt, ma ei tea kas valetavad Google pildid või viidi meid valesse koopasse, mina igastahes nägin seal midagi muud, kui nendel piltidel on, koobas oli küll suur ja sügav, ning sealt nägi kristallselge veega sügavat järve (kaugusest muidugi), kuid minu ettekujutuses oli see koht rohkem valgustatud ja kuidagi suurema kõndimisvõimalistega. Siiski soovitan võtta paadituur sinna koopasse, sest peale toreda koopa saate veeta u 30-40 minutit ka jõe peal ning nautida kaunist vaadet orule, eriti hea võimalus neile, kellel on vähe aega või kes palju kõndida ei taha. Paadisõit maksab 400 denarit näkku, õige koha tunnete ära paadimaja järgi, kust laenutakse ka kanuusid. Ühele paadile võetakse peale u 10-15 inimest, kuid minnakse ka väiksema grupiga. 
Edit: Tuleb välja, et ka Horvaatias on olemas Vrelo koobas, mille pilte Google mulle näitaksi. Makedoonia oma näeb välja selline nagu esimestel piltidel SIIN

Söögikohad:
Ohrid: Ohridis, eriti vanalinnas on väga palju söögikohti, nii ranna ääres, kui ka mujal. Mina istusin maha kohas nimega Ariz, mis oli küllaltki vanalinna alguses, järvest veidi kaugemal ning asus basaari kandis, seega tundus mulle koht Türgi juurtega, kuid väidetavalt oli neil ka Makedoonia toitu, milleks oli kanaroog koos tomati, sibula ja juustuga, kuigi tavaliselt sellise pakkumise peale lähen ma enda jaoks turvalisemat teed ning valin mõne toidu, mida ma tean, siis seekord riskisin ja ausalt öeldes oli see väga maitsev! Siiski polnud see just esmaklassiline koht einestamiseks, ilusad kohad jäävad järvekaldale. 
Matka: Matkas ma süüa ei otsustanud, kuna mulle tundus sealne restoran, mis tegelikult oli väga ilus, Makedoonia kohta liiga kallis. Minu soovitus on pigem võtta süüa ise kaasa ning pidada maha üks piknik, matkateerajal on mitmeid kohti koos laudude ja toolidega või siis einestada Skopjes, kus saab sama asja tunduvalt odavama hinnaga. 

Vaba aeg:
Ohrid: Sarnaselt Skopjele on ka Ohridis basaar, kus leidub igasugu huvitavaid asju. Näiteks asub basaari kõrvaltänavas ilus pood, mille maja seinal on puust silt, kus on kirjas  Традиционален Охридски Филигран (Traditsionalen Ohridski Filigran). Tegemist ei ole suure poega, kuid sealt leiab väga ilusaid hõbeehteid, mis on valmiatuatud käsitsi ning kus on kasuatud Makedoonia rubiini. Mina nägin ehteid mille maksumus oli nt 1400 denarit (22€), mis pole tegelikult palju ja nende valmistajaks oli väga tore noor ehtekunstnik. Tagasivaadates sellele poele tunnen ennast nii halvasti, et ma sealt midagi ei ostnud, kuna ehtekunstniku sõnul pidi selliseid poode, kus tooraine on Makedooniast ja ehteid valmistakse käsitsi, vähe olema. Ohridis on võimalik minna sõitma ka paadiga, mida ma küll ise ajapuuduse mõttes ei teinud, kuid kuulsin, kuidas ühele paarile prooviti ideed maha müüa vaid 10€ eest (5€ näkku). Kahjuks ei oska ma öelda, millises olukorras on paadid ning kaua sõit kestab. 
Matka: Nagu te vast juba aru olete saanud, siis Matka ongi üks suur vabaaja veetmise koht, peale paadisõidu on seal võimalik matkata (pikim ots lõpuni on u 15km ehk edasi-tagasi 30km), samuti on võimalik laenutada kanuusid, millega koopani jõudmiseks läheb ikka tund/kaks kindlalt+ koobas pole ära märgstatud, kuid mulle tundus, et kanuutajatel oli sellest hoolimata väga mõnus vee peal liuelda. 

Ja sellised olidki minu seiklused Makedoonias, minu lemmikkohaks oli kindlasti Ohrid, kuid ma soovitan ka Skopjesse minna ning miks mitte ka Matkasse, kui juba seal lähedal olla. Uute seiklusteni Kreekas!
Cheers! 

Ohrid:
 Matka Canyon:

Hello hello! 
The second and also the last post about this Macedonia trip is ready! As today I am talking about two places, then let's better get started!
Have fun! 

Destination:
Ohrid and Matka Canyon, Macedonia

Duration of Trip:
As my whole accommodation was in Skopje then both of those trips were 1-day-long ones. 

Travelling to Destination:
Ohrid: I went there by bus from Skopje (and came back too). The both way ticket costed 12€ and one way took around 3-3,5 hours, in that bus there weren't nothing special, no wifi and so on. Tickets are available from the main bus station (in Skopje) and the schedule is quite flexible, in Ohrid's bus station there's even written the schedule. The bus ticket system is the same as it was when I arrived to Skopje, to come back, you need book the seat in the bus in destination bus stop (in this case in Ohrid), because the ticket is "opened" one. In Skopje there was no need to pay the platform fee, but in Ohrid I needed to pay around 60 denars (1€=61 denars), not sure for what, but that was the order.
Matka: To Matka there goes the bus from city busses bus station, which is next to main one, Matka bus in nr 60, which schedule is available from the comments in HERE, for me these times were working. The canyon is around 15 km from Skopje and it takes around 45-60 minutes to get there. The usual city transport ticket is enough, for 100 denars it should be possible to have 3 rides, the city transport card costs around 50-100 denars. In my case the bus stopped in the village, which was 4 km away from Matka Canyon, so there's option to walk or to take the taxi to Canyon, one guide said to me that the taxi ride should be around 100-200 denras, but unfortunately I don't know is it true, because I choose walking. The road to there was easy, it's straight road, there's some signs and usually there's other hikers too who are coming by bus, so it is quite impossible to get lost. The bus goes back from the same place across the street (in front of the shop) and it's easy to find by other people. There's also possibility to go to Matka by car. 

About Local Life: 
Ohrid: On the way to Ohrid, I saw how many mountains and hills this county has, it felt, like there's only one big city, some smaller towns and villages and then a lot of mountains covered by trees. On the road there were some road fee stops, to closer to Skopje, the more stops, unfortunately I can't say much about the prices, but I guess that for a normal car it was 1,5-2€ until to the next stop? My first impression about Ohrid wasn't the best, because the bus station was a bit away from city center and around that there were a lot of poor houses (in two last photos of Ohrid section there is a usul street and the bus station), in my head I had a picture of a small place with all those beautiful houses and views, what the Google photos are offering, in reality it was only a small part of the town. As like in every place what I visited in Macedonia, there was a male (creepy older one), who started a conversation with me and he didn't leave me alone until he managed to give his Facebook contact, I let it to write on paper, because I refused to give mine, very unpleasant experience. 
Matka: With the Matka it was almost the same things, everything was almost like on the Google photos, but in some how I had the whole other expectations about this place, I thought that there's more place covered by grass where to sit and enjoy the view and that  rocks will go step by step bigger, but in reality there were a lot of hikers, the roads were narrow (for sure wear the comfortable footwear, not the high heels, like some girl in there did), in some places the fences were broken, so despite of the beauty of the place I was all day long disappointed, because in my head I had created so much better place, not a good thing to do... 

Accommodation:
As I already told, then whole my accommodation were in Skopje, all about that I wrote in that post in HERE. But as far as I know, there's also possible to have place in Ohrid or/and in Matka, too. It depends what are you looking for, but in my opinion both of those places are good as a one day trip destinations. 

Sightseers:
Ohrid: I hope that I will not ruin someone experience with Ohrid as the Google photos ruined mine with Matka, but that small part of the town (old town), of what I was talking before, was very very very beautiful. It reminded me a bit Como lake and a bit coast of Croatia and a bit of Game of Thrones (which one part is also made in Croatia), fun fact: I never have been in those places. Although the whole old town was very pretty and romantic then my favourite places were St. John church, which was very beautiful but the view from there was just amazing, I also liked St. Panteleimon monastery, which was one of the first universities in the Europe (or maybe in the world, too). Thanks to the strong religious history of that town there's a lot of churches and mosques. To visit the main sightseers (to go in) there were each of those places a ticket, which costed around 60-120 denars (1-2€). Unfortunately I didn't found any free tours, but I found this page in HERE, form where it's possible to download PDF files for free, which consists all the information about main sightseers and maps, in that page there's also an audio files about the same thing, for me it was a big help.   
Matka: Matka is more a place for nature loves, besides of one church, there nothing more about a great architecture, but there is a Vrelo cave, which people thinks may be one of the deepest underwater caves in the world. Really, I don't know, are the Google photos are not telling the truth or I had the trip to the wrong cave, but what I saw was different than these photos shows, the cave is quite big and deep and I saw the deep lake with super clear water (from distance of course), but in my head this place were with different lights and there was more walking room (like in some photos). But I still recommend to take the boat tour to that cave, because it's still a nice place and with 30-40 minutes you can experience a nice views from the river, a very good option for those, who wants to save time and don't want to walk so much. The boat trip costs 400 denars per person and the right place for having a tour is the place,  where is the boat house, in there they also renting canoes. In one boat there will be 10-15 persons (from different groups), but I guess in some cases they do the trips with smaller groups too. 
Edit: There is a Vrelo cave in Croatia too, so Google showed me photos of this place. Macedonian one looks like the first photos in HERE

Place to Eat:
Ohrid: In Ohrid, especially in old town, there's a lot of places where to eat, some of them are near to lake, some of them are in other places. I ate in the place called Ariz, which was quite beginning of the old town, more away from the lake and near of bazaar, so this place for me was more Turkish than Macedonian place. But they said that they have some traditional Macedonian food, for example I took a chicken with tomatoes, onion and cheese- usually I wouldn't have something like this, but on that day I wanted to try something new and I am glad that I did it, because it tasted really good. But still, this place is a simple one, more fancy and prettier ones are next to lake. 
Matka: In Matka I decided not to eat, because the restaurant, which was really pretty, was too expensive. I recommend to take some food with you and have a nice picnic, becayse there's some tables and chairs on the hiking road or then have a meal in Skopje, where the same it's much cheaper. 

Free Time:
 Ohrid: As in Skopje there's also a bazaar in Ohrid, where's all kind of things. Next of the main bazaar street there's a lovely shop, which has a wooden sign, where is written Традиционален Охридски Филигран (Traditsionalen Ohridski Filigran), it's not a big shop, but there's a beautiful silver handmade jewelry, which are decorated with Macedonian ruby. I saw jewelry which costed around 1400 denars (22€), which is not so much and the creator of them is super lovely young woman. Now I feel so bad, that I didn't buy anything from there, because that lovely jewelry designer said that there's only couple of these kind of shops where they use ruby which is from Macedonia and the jewelry are hand made. In Ohrid there's also possibility to have a boat trip, as I didn't had so much time, then I skipped it, but I heard how there was a offer to one couple, to have a ride for 10€ (5€ per person). Unfortunately I don't know what kind of boats they have or how long is the trip. 
Matka: As you already udestood then the Matka Canyon is a place where people go to spend they free time, besides the boat trips, it's also the place for hiking (the longest road is 15 km, so go and back 30 km), also there's a option to rent canoe, to reach to the cave with that it takes at least an hour or two and it may hard to find it, because there is no sign about cave, but people still had fun with that. 

And these were my adventures about Macedonia, my favourite place was for sure Ohrid, but I also recommend to vist Skopje and why not Matka, too.
Soon more about the adventures in Greece!
Cheers! 

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